What is Abyssinian Oil?

A vegetable oil extracted by cold-pressing the seeds of Crambe abyssinica, a cruciferous plant native to Ethiopia, ancient Abyssinia. Technically, it is not a conventional oil in the strict sense: its fatty acid composition is unusual and differentiates it from most vegetable oils used in cosmetics.

Its cultivation has spread to Europe and other regions, but the name recalls its African origin. A discreet plant, without the glamour of argan or coconut, but with a chemistry that has conquered high-end cosmetic formulations.

Composition and why it is unique

Its uniqueness comes from erucic acid, a very long-chain omega-9 fatty acid that accounts for 55% to 60% of its total composition. The human body does not synthesize it, which means that applying it topically provides something the skin cannot produce on its own.

This long chain is responsible for two of its most striking qualities: an extraordinarily silky texture and exceptional thermal stability. It does not oxidize easily, does not go rancid with heat, and perfectly withstands the temperatures of a hairdryer or straightener, something few vegetable oils can boast.

Its profile is completed by oleic acid (omega-9) and linoleic acid (omega-6), which provide nourishment and reinforce the skin barrier, and vitamin E as a natural antioxidant.

Properties and benefits

• Ultra-dry and silky texture: absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy feeling or residue. One of the "driest" oils in the plant world.
• Deep hair nourishment: seals the cuticle, reduces frizz, and provides intense shine without weighing hair down.
• Natural heat protectant: its thermal stability forms a barrier that protects hair from the heat of hairdryers, straighteners, and sun exposure.
• Split end repairer: strengthens the most damaged areas of the hair fiber and reduces breakage.
• Soothing on skin: relieves irritations, improves elasticity, and is well tolerated on sensitive skin or after sun exposure.
• Non-comedogenic: comedogenic rating of 0, does not clog pores. Suitable for oily, combination, or acne-prone skin.
• Light for the face: used as a facial serum for skin that does not tolerate denser oils.

Usage and integration into routine

In solid shampoos and conditioners, it appears as an active ingredient to provide nourishment, shine, and protection without adding weight. It is one of the preferred oils by solid formulators precisely because its ultra-dry texture does not interfere with lather or weigh down the final result. In the Lamazuna solid shampoos that incorporate it, its function is to nourish the hair fiber and provide that silky finish that is noticeable from the first use.

Facts and curiosities

The Queen of Sheba and Abyssinian oil
It is said that the Queen of Sheba, native to ancient Ethiopia, was aware of the secrets of this plant and its properties. Egyptians and Abyssinians used it millennia ago, long before modern cosmetics "discovered" it. It is not the only ingredient that has been in use for centuries before receiving scientific endorsement.

NASA and extreme stability
The exceptional thermal and chemical stability of Abyssinian oil attracted the attention of researchers looking for lubricants for machinery in extreme conditions. Its long-chain molecular structure resists temperatures and pressures where most vegetable oils degrade. What makes it protect hair from a hairdryer is exactly what made it interesting for industrial applications.

Erucic acid: misunderstood and rehabilitated
Erucic acid had a bad reputation for decades due to studies in rats that suggested cardiac toxicity at very high doses in oral consumption. This led to restrictions on food oils with a high erucic content. But in topical cosmetic use, the concentrations are very different, and the exposure pathway is completely different. Cosmetics have rehabilitated it as one of the most effective hair active ingredients available.

Ultralight and multi-purpose
It can also be used as a facial serum, hair treatment, heat protectant, body moisturizer, or base to mix with other active ingredients. Few vegetable oils have such versatility without compromising texture in any of these uses.

This is how it appears in the INCI: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

Other active ingredients that may interest you

Argan Oil: nourishment and shine, complementary profile for hair and face.
Jojoba Oil: sebum-regulating, comedogenic rating 0-2, another light option for oily skin.
Squalane: dry emollient with a similar profile, ideal for skin that rejects conventional oils.
Pure vegetable oils: to explore more options from the plant world.