What is Squalane
Human skin naturally produces squalene: it accounts for approximately 13% of sebum. It is one of the components that keep the skin soft, supple, and protected. The problem is that its production decreases with age and that, in its natural form, squalene oxidizes easily and can clog pores.
Squalane is the hydrogenated version of squalene: more stable, odorless, liquid, and non-oxidizing. The skin recognizes it as its own because it essentially is, and absorbs it without resistance. That is its secret.
The difference between the two names is just one letter, but it changes everything relevant: the final E (squalene) is the unstable natural compound; the A (squalane) is the stabilized laboratory version that works in cosmetics.
Where does it come from
Historically, it was obtained from shark liver, where it is concentrated in large quantities. This is where its name comes from: Squalusis a genus of sharks in Latin, and "squale" means shark in French. For decades, the industry needed thousands of sharks to meet cosmetic demand.
Today the situation has changed completely. Most of the squalane used in natural cosmetics comes from plant sources, mainly from olives, which are the richest in natural squalene, but also from sugar cane and rice bran. There is no reason to use squalane of animal origin when plant sources give an identical result.
How it works
It acts as an emollient and light occlusive: it forms a thin barrier on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss without clogging pores or leaving a greasy feeling. Its affinity with human sebum means that the skin processes it immediately, without the adaptation period that some oils require.
It also has antioxidant action, protecting the skin from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and environmental stress. And its tolerance is exceptional: it is non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-comedogenic. It is probably the ingredient with the best efficacy-to-tolerance ratio in all cosmetics.
Properties and benefits
- Light and long-lasting hydration. It seals moisture in the skin without an occlusive sensation. Ideal for skin looking for nourishment without heaviness.
- Non-comedogenic. Suitable for oily, combination, or acne-prone skin, where other denser oils can cause problems.
- Soothing. Reduces redness and irritation. Well tolerated even on skin with eczema or very reactive skin.
- Antioxidant. Protects against accumulated environmental damage.
- Hair. Seals the cuticle, adds shine, and protects from hair dryer heat without weighing it down. A few drops on ends or as a heat protectant before straightening.
Usage and integration into routine
It goes at the end of the routine, as the last step before sunscreen in the morning or as a nighttime seal. Alone or mixed with your usual cream, a few drops are enough.
Especially effective combinations: with hyaluronic acid, HA attracts water and squalane seals it. With bakuchiolor retinol, it softens potential irritation and improves tolerance. With vitamin C, it enhances antioxidant protection.
Suitable for use morning and night, on face, body, and hair.
Curiosities and facts
Soul of olive oil
Extra virgin olive oil naturally contains squalene in relevant concentrations, more than any other plant-based food. This is one of the reasons why olive oil has such a historical reputation for being beneficial for the skin. Mediterranean cuisine taking care of the skin from within before the concept of cosmetics existed.
The "A" that changed everything
The hydrogenation of squalene into squalane was a seemingly simple technical advance but with significant consequences: it transformed an unstable and problematic compound into one of the most tolerated and versatile emollients in modern cosmetics. The one-letter difference hides years of development.
For any skin type
One of the few active ingredients with no real contraindications. There is no skin type for whom squalane does not work. Oily, dry, mature, sensitive, acne-prone. There is no adaptation period, no photosensitivity, no risk of irritation. In a market full of active ingredients with nuances and exceptions, that is striking.
This is how it appears in the INCI: Squalane
Other active ingredients that may interest you
Jojoba Oil: another wax/oil with a similar sebum profile, with additional sebum-regulating action.
Hyaluronic acid: the ideal complement, it attracts water while squalane retains it.
Bakuchiol: renovating and anti-aging, squalane improves its tolerance in sensitive skin.
Astaxanthin: powerful antioxidant, a very effective combination for anti-aging protection.