The Famous Coconut Oil
Coconut oil is probably the best-known vegetable oil in the world. And like everything that becomes very fashionable, it accumulates myths on both sides: those who turn it into a universal remedy for everything, and those who dismiss it as "comedogenic" or "too heavy." The reality depends heavily on what type of coconut oil we are talking about.
The one we use is fractionated coconut oil, obtained by cold pressing the fresh pulp of Cocos nucifera. "Fractionated" means that some of the long-chain fatty acids have been removed, which are responsible for virgin coconut oil solidifying at low temperatures. The result is an oil that remains liquid year-round, is lighter, absorbs faster, and has a longer shelf life, without losing the properties that make it interesting.
How it works
Its profile is very different from other vegetable oils. It is dominated by medium-chain fatty acids, mainly caprylic and capric, which are easily absorbed and penetrate well into the skin and hair without leaving a greasy film sensation.
Lauric acid, although in a smaller proportion in the fractionated version, is its most studied component: it has demonstrated natural antimicrobial action against bacteria and some fungi. That’s why it soothes reactive, irritated, or blemish-prone skin, and works so well as an aftershave or on sensitive areas.
Added vitamin E acts as an antioxidant: it protects the oil's lipids from rancidity and, on the skin, slows down oxidative damage caused by the sun and pollution.
Properties and benefits
- Light and long-lasting hydration. Strengthens the skin barrier, reduces transepidermal water loss, and leaves skin soft without an occlusive feeling. Ideal on damp skin after showering.
- Natural antimicrobial thanks to lauric acid. Useful for blemish-prone, irritated skin, or as an aftershave.
- Soothing and repairing. Relieves redness, mild eczema, reactive skin, and post-sun redness. No synthetic preservatives, no additives.
- Effective makeup remover. Dissolves even waterproof makeup, removes dirt and impurities without drying. On dry skin, before regular cleansing.
- In hair, it nourishes without weighing it down, reduces frizz, seals split ends, and makes styling easier. Use as an overnight mask for very damaged hair, or a few drops on ends for daily use.
- Truly multipurpose: face, body, hair, makeup remover, aftershave, shaving primer. Few oils cover so much ground with so little product.
Use and integration into your routine
On skin, apply to clean, slightly damp skin after showering. A few drops, massage in circles and let absorb. With coconut oil, less is always more.
As a makeup remover, apply a few drops to your fingers or a cotton pad, gently massage over makeup, and rinse with water. Catches even waterproof makeup.
As an aftershave, warm 3-4 drops between your palms, apply gently to the shaved area. Soothes, moisturizes, and disinfects without the sting of alcohol.
In hair, a few drops on mid-lengths and ends, on damp or dry hair. For a repairing mask, apply generously throughout hair, leave on for 30-60 minutes or overnight with a cap, and wash with a gentle shampoo. For oily hair, only on the ends.
Combines well with shea butterfor intense body nourishment, and with jojoba oilfor combination skin where coconut alone might feel a bit rich.
Curiosities and facts
The most versatile of all
With all due respect to squalane. In the Pacific islands and Indonesia, coconut oil has been used for centuries for practically everything: natural sunscreen (SPF 4-6, not a substitute for a real one but adds some protection), healing, moisturizing, hair protection before swimming in the sea. Modern cosmetics took a long time to catch up.
Fractionated vs. virgin
They are not the same. Virgin coconut oil is solid at room temperature, has an intense aroma, and a denser structure. Fractionated is liquid, practically odorless, lighter, and more stable. For daily cosmetic use, fractionated wins in convenience and versatility. Virgin has its place in intensive hair masks or more nourishing preparations.
The comedogenicity debate
Virgin coconut oil has a comedogenic index of 4 out of 5, making it one of the most likely to clog pores if used excessively on the face. Fractionated has a lighter profile, but for very oily or acne-prone skin, it is still better to reserve it for the body and hair. There is no universal oil for all skin types, only oils used correctly.
Source of lauric acid
Lauric acid is also found in breast milk, where it plays a protective role in newborns. That a vegetable oil contains it in a relevant concentration is no small feat.
Keeps for a long time
Fractionated coconut oil has a shelf life of up to 2 years if well preserved. Added vitamin E further extends its stability. Few oils last this long without going rancid.
It appears in the INCI as: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Other active ingredients that may interest you
Argan Oil: lighter and drier, ideal for the face on combination or oily skin where coconut may not be convincing.
Jojoba Oil:sebum-regulating liquid wax, the smartest alternative for oily skin.
Shea Butter: intense nourishment, the perfect partner for coconut in body creams and masks.
Pure vegetable oils:to explore other options and find the one that best suits your skin and routine.