What is beta-glucan?

A polysaccharide — a complex sugar — formed by chains of glucose molecules. It's not a new ingredient in cosmetics; it's been used since the 90s, but it's now experiencing its moment of greatest visibility for a specific reason: it hydrates more than hyaluronic acid and also soothes. Few active ingredients can say the same.

It is obtained from natural sources rich in this compound: fungi and mushrooms, oats, seaweed, and yeasts. In cosmetics, purified versions are used to ensure efficacy and tolerance. The origin is less important than the molecular structure; it is the latter that determines how it acts on the skin.

How it works

Beta-glucan has a triple helix structure that the skin recognizes and absorbs easily. It acts as a powerful humectant: it draws water into the superficial layers of the epidermis and retains it there, keeping the skin hydrated for hours. It also forms a light, invisible film that protects without clogging or adding oiliness.

But it goes beyond hydration. It activates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, and stimulates the skin's natural defense mechanisms. The result is skin that not only retains more water, but with continued use, improves its firmness, resilience, and ability to recover.

Properties and benefits

• Deep and long-lasting hydration. Studies indicate that beta-glucan can exceed hyaluronic acid's water retention capacity by 20%. This is noticeable in texture, plumpness, and comfort throughout the day.
• Soothing and anti-inflammatory. Relieves redness, irritation, and reactive skin. One of its most interesting qualities for sensitive skin or skin that does not tolerate other active ingredients well.
• Strengthens the skin barrier. Improves skin resistance and reduces transepidermal water loss, the process by which skin loses hydration without us noticing.
• Stimulates collagen. By activating fibroblasts, it helps improve firmness and smooth fine lines with continued use.
• Antioxidant. Protects against free radicals and environmental stress.

Use and integration into routine

Suitable for morning and night, without restrictions. Works well in hydrating or soothing serums, before cream or oil. Compatible with practically everything,hyaluronic acid,niacinamide,bakuchiol,PHA. It is not an active ingredient that causes conflicts.

Especially interesting for sensitive, dehydrated, or reactive skin where other active ingredients may be aggressive or insufficient.

Curiosities and facts

It's not hyaluronic acid's rival, it's its complement
Although the 20% superior hydration figure appears in studies, the most interesting thing is not who wins that comparison but that they are different mechanisms. HA retains water through osmotic attraction; beta-glucan also acts on the barrier and skin immunity. Together they do more than each one separately.

Comes from oats
One of the most classic sources of beta-glucan is oats, which explains why oat creams have always been known for their soothing properties—it wasn't just marketing. Oats naturally contain beta-glucan, and its effect on irritated skin or eczema is well-documented.

Another wonderful 80s product
Although it now sounds like a trendy ingredient, beta-glucan has been studied in dermatology since the 80s and used in cosmetics since the 90s. The current boom is not a trend fad; it's just that the market has been slow to catch up with what science already knew.

This is how it appears in the INCI: Beta-Glucan, Oat Beta-Glucan, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Other active ingredients you might be interested in

Hyaluronic acid— classic humectant, complements beta-glucan in intense hydration routines.
Niacinamide— strengthens the skin barrier from another angle, a very effective combination.
Bakuchiol— to add renewing and anti-aging action in the same routine.
Squalane— to seal beta-glucan's hydration with a light lipid layer.