What is hemp oil?

A vegetable oil extracted by cold-pressing the seeds ofCannabis sativa, the hemp plant. It does not contain THC or CBD, the psychoactive and therapeutic compounds found in other parts of the plant. Hemp seed oil is a cosmetic ingredient with an exceptional fatty acid profile.

It is one of the few vegetable oils with an omega-3 to omega-6 ratio very close to optimal for human skin, which explains its affinity with the skin barrier and its exceptional tolerance even on reactive skin.

Composition

Its richness comes mainly from two essential fatty acids: linoleic acid (omega-6), between 50% and 60%, and alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3), between 15% and 25%. Both are essential, as the body does not synthesize them and they must be supplied from external sources. Their ratio in hemp oil, approximately 3:1 omega-6 to omega-3, is considered optimal in both nutrition and topical use.

It also contains gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), a rare omega-6 in most vegetable oils, with specific anti-inflammatory properties that differentiate it from other oils with a similar profile. And vitamin E as a natural antioxidant.

How it works

Its essential fatty acids integrate directly into the lipid structure of the skin barrier, strengthening it and reducing transepidermal water loss. In skin with lipid deficiency, as often occurs in dry, atopic, or eczema-prone skin, this contribution is especially valuable.

GLA acts on the skin's inflammatory response, calming redness and irritation from within the barrier. And its comedogenic rating of 0 to 2 makes it compatible with oily or acne-prone skin, where many denser oils can be counterproductive.

Properties and benefits

• Strengthens the skin barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss.
• Calms redness, irritation, and reactive skin thanks to GLA.
• Non-comedogenic: does not clog pores, suitable for combination, oily, and acne-prone skin.
• Hydration without a greasy feeling: light texture that absorbs easily.
• Sebum-regulating: helps balance sebum production in combination skin.
• Antioxidant: vitamin E protects against environmental oxidative damage.
• Suitable for sensitive, atopic, or eczema-prone skin, where other oils may not be tolerated.

Use and integration into routine

In cosmetics, it appears as an active ingredient in serums, creams, and cleansing products, where it provides light nourishment without compromising the texture of the final product. In syndets and solid cleansers, such as Lamazuna's activated charcoal cleanser, its function is to counteract the drying effect of purifying actives: while charcoal and clay cleanse and absorb sebum, hemp and sunflower oil care for the barrier without clogging.

As a pure oil, a few drops on clean skin work well for skin prone to redness or irritation, or mixed with your usual serum to boost hydration.

It combines especially well withniacinamideto work on the barrier and sebum, withhyaluronic acidfor deep hydration, and withbeta-glucanin routines for reactive skin.

Curiosities and facts

The name debateHemp seed oil carries the weight of its plant's name, which often causes confusion for consumers and sometimes regulators. In cosmetics, it is a completely legal and well-documented ingredient throughout the EU. The INCI lists it asCannabis Sativa Seed Oilwithout any restrictions.

Almost perfect omega ratioThe 3:1 omega-6 to omega-3 ratio of hemp oil approximately matches what nutritionists consider optimal for general health. In topical use, this same ratio translates into a special affinity with the lipids of the skin barrier that few vegetable oils can match. Argan, jojoba, or olive oil have interesting profiles, but none replicate this specific ratio.

GLA: the omega-6 that makes a differenceGamma-linolenic acid is not just any omega-6. It is unusual in vegetable oils, and its specific anti-inflammatory action on the skin is well documented. Evening primrose oil and borage oil also contain it, which is why they are renowned for treating atopic and eczema-prone skin. Hemp oil shares this quality, albeit in a somewhat lower concentration.

Sustainable by natureHemp is one of the most sustainable plants to cultivate: it grows fast, needs little water, does not require pesticides under most conditions, and regenerates soils instead of depleting them. A cosmetic ingredient with a naturally low environmental footprint, not just a marketing claim.

This is how it appears in the INCI: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

Other active ingredients that may interest you

Jojoba Oil: sebum-regulating, low comedogenic rating, ideal for combination or oily skin.Squalane: light and non-comedogenic emollient, complementary profile for reactive skin.Beta-glucan: soothing and moisturizing, a natural complement in routines for sensitive or atopic skin.Clays: to understand the role of kaolin and ghassoul in the same product where hemp oil appears.Syndets: the context of gentle cleansing where hemp oil shines as a compensating ingredient.